Winter, Chapter 2.5: Castle in fog

Charlene journal 8 Comments

Hillerød, Denmark, early March This one’s a throwback to that crazy foggy day I woke up to, at the beginning of this trip to Denmark. I look at these pictures now, a month and a half after they were made. I can’t believe myself that I was there, wandering around a the quiet town center that morning. Buildings were ghosting in and out of sight, as were people. It’s a funny thing, memory. Some parts are so distinct and others are mutable depending on the state of mind. The sights in the photos seem unreal, but I can remember the crispness of the cold on my face, exhaling clouds of ice. The castle itself was barely visible unless you were right in its grounds, surrounded …

Winter Chapter 6: The last days of fog

Charlene journal 1 Comment

Aalborg, Denmark. This may be my penultimate winter post. The thawing fields are being fertilised and ploughed, readied for the growing season. After days of clear skies, it snowed briefly – furiously – for an hour in the morning. And then, the snow eased, and it rained for the first time since I’d arrived in Denmark on 21 February. It has been warming for days. Clear all through Easter. The cool kids in town in their jean jackets and exposed ankles. Me not quite so Michelin-Man-esque. Still looking, in growing vain, for heavy days.

Moo day

Charlene Hundred Day Diary 3 Comments

Day 68 of 100, northern Jutland, Denmark The cow is of the bovine ilk; one end is moo, the other milk. – Ogden Nash Today’s post is a little different from my usual aimlessly-gazing-at-navel variety, because today we did something. Went out into the world, purposely came into contact with the community, interacted with people, watched cows dance. Today is Økodag, the day where organic dairy cows across the country are let out to pasture for the first time after a long winter of being cooped up in their barns. This is a big event in Denmark, and participating farms make their own little “festival” of it, opening their premises to the public (usually families with small children, city folk, and odd balls like us). …

The endless grey

Charlene journal 7 Comments

Nordjylland, Danmark It’s been about two weeks since I’ve seen any sun. The sky has been a flat not-quite white which fades to black at night, and lightens to an evening shade of grey when it becomes day. It weighs more when a drizzle wanders in, but that is all the change there is. Fog and mist and rain are a hair’s breadth from being the same thing. Shadows are barely perceptible, but the trees that have their leaves are a deep green, and others shedding their foliage are unrepentantly gold. The passage of the season is clearer to me right now than that of a day. The light never shifts except to evaporate at night and coagulate again in the next morning, washing the world dimly. Time is seeing a dark cloud in the great grey. That at least, …

The end of summer

Charlene journal 14 Comments

Nordjylland, Danmark After days of glorious sunshine the weather moved in, and on Sunday rain clouds were piled grouchily on the horizon. By mid morning, everything had a slate grey cast to it. “Let’s go to the beach,” Flemming’s Dad said. The last time we were in Thorup, it was really foggy. When we got there this time, the boats were all sitting snug on the sand, and the sea behind them was brokenly striped in rushing foam and dark water. My hat blew off my head into a puddle when I stepped out of the car. We’d come down to get some fish from the shop, but it was closed. With the main mission foiled, we enjoyed the coming of the rain instead, at the edge of the water. Ten minutes to run around the boats before …

One night in Copenhagen

Charlene journal 2 Comments

I walked around the center of Copenhagen for hours today. And realized with a jolt, that after all the time I’ve spent here – every summer for the last 3 years – I’ve never been out in it on my own. This being Flemming’s home city, I’m always with him when we’re here. But today I padded around the city in the way I’ve done in so many others as long as I’ve lived this travelling life: Alone, allowing its rhythm and melody to settle under my skin. Made some pictures. Lots of crap, as always happens when I am somewhere new (and Copenhagen might as well be new, for all the attention I haven’t paid it until now). There might be an award winner …

Landscapes of Memory I

Charlene journal 6 Comments

Nordjylland, Danmark A year ago, I published the first of a little series over at the Kage Collective, made during my first visit to the area that Flemming calls home (where his father still lives). He’s lived outside of northern Jutland longer than he’s lived in it, but still identifies strongly with the place. He belongs to the land of his birth as much as I don’t belong to mine. A year on, we’re back in northern Jutland again. I’m reminded of the nostalgia, so here’s that post in full. —— The point of departure is so often a severance. The breaking of ties, a rejection of all that is past. The stillness of old spaces. Ancient burial grounds, awaiting resurrection; the spirits that burst forth in seething, vital turmoil. At the borders of origin, can …

Fog, Fishing and Family

Charlene journal 17 Comments

Nordjylland, Danmark, Sep 2015 We went to visit Flemming’s father in Northern Jutland for a few days last year. It wasn’t my first visit, but it was the one where I got a sense of the place where Flemming Bo Jensen (who is a Nordjyde) was born and raised, as his father drove us around the region on a grand tour. The day he brought us to Trend Strand (Trend beach) so I could run around in the fog and sea grass, was also the day we went to Aggersund, got the scoop on Harald Bluetooth’s Aggersborg, the largest known round Viking castle in Denmark, and how the Vikings dug a passage for their ships from Limfjord to the North Sea. We stopped by the small fishing town of Thorup in the late afternoon, to watch the fishing boats get towed onto the beach …